A Guide to the Best Vermouth Bars in Barcelona

Vermouth is Barcelona’s favorite drink — and these bars are the best places to raise a glass.

It was early evening in Barcelona — that wonderful time in Spain when work is over, but the sun is out, and dinner is still a few hours away. I lounged outside a bar called Morro Fi, drinking vermouth over ice and nibbling olives, potato chips, and conservas, those tinned fish that are such a delicacy in Iberia.

Morro Fi is sleek and modern, with a minimalist interior and equally minimalist menu. “We only serve vermouth, beer, and snacks,” owner Marcel Fernandez said. “As a kid, I went out with my parents after church for a vermouth, before going to lunch with the family. So, I haven’t been very creative. It’s the same menu a vermutería would have served when I was a kid.”

The hora del vermut, “vermouth hour,” is a sacred time of day in Barcelona. Originally, it meant sometime around noon or 1 p.m., when you had a vermouth and a snack to tide you over until lunch. But these days, the vermouth hour can be any time before a meal, though it usually means day drinking. “We don’t like to be open late at night,” Fernandez said. 

Morro Fi operates in a narrow space that was a wineshop from the 1950s until 2010, when Fernandez first opened, after covering the city’s bar scene as a blogger. “This is the perfect bar for me, a contemporary place that hasn’t invented anything,” he said. “I don’t know if this bar would work if you put it in the U.S.”

Vermouth is an aromatized wine, infused with botanicals, herbs, spices, and fruits, that clocks in at around 17 percent alcohol by volume. The ingredients vary, but generally include quinine, wormwood, citrus peel, vanilla, gentian root, thyme, ginger, and baking spices. “Producers will say, ‘Ah, our vermouth has thirty or sixty or one million herbs,’ ” said Fernandez, who created his own house vermouth for Morro Fi. “Ours has ten ingredients,” he said, “but they’re secret.”

“Spanish vermouth is not something you spend your time thinking about how complex it is, or how sophisticated you are,” Monti said.

The historic roots of vermouth lie in Turin, Italy, where the aperitivo became a staple in the late 18th century. By the mid to late 19th century, it was being exported all over the world. Barcelona, in that era, had the largest community of Italian immigrants in Spain, and the local importer of Martini vermouth built a bar that was decorated, in part, by legendary Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí.

“That’s when vermouth became the drink of choice for Catalans,” François Monti, a Spain-based drinks writer and author of El Gran Libro del Vermut, told me. Catalonia is now the center of vermouth production in Spain, home to brands including Casa Mariol, Yzaguirre, and Timbal, which can all be found in the U.S.

One night, I met my friend Lucy Garcia — a Barcelona-based film producer who worked with Anthony Bourdain when he shot in Spain — at Cala del Vermut, near the city’s old Gothic cathedral. There we ate a fantastic tortilla, patatas bravas, and pan con tomate with our vermouth, which was poured from a barrel on the bar. “Fer el vermut (literally ‘to do the vermouth’) was a ritual all around Catalonia but almost disappeared in Barcelona, pretty much around the same time people stopped going to Mass,” Garcia said. “It was basically an old man’s drink until about ten years ago.” That’s when a new generation of trendsetters — like Fernandez — ushered in a vermouth rebirth. At Cala del Vermut that evening, I was surprised to see there were no old men, but rather a good-looking, smartly dressed young crowd. 

Spanish vermouth has quite a different taste than its Italian cousin. For one thing, it’s not as bitter, but more citrusy and fresh. And it’s meant to be consumed not in cocktails, but on the rocks, with food. “Spanish vermouth is not something you spend your time thinking about how complex it is, or how sophisticated you are,” Monti said.

In Barcelona, my favorite vermuterías have less to do with the quality of the vermouth, and more with the general feeling, a vibe. When I asked Garcia which was her favorite vermouth bar in Barcelona, she chuckled. “I love the one in front of my apartment.”

Where to Drink Vermouth in Barcelona

Morro Fi

One of the places that kicked off the vermouth renaissance in Barcelona. It has several outposts; the most centrally located is in the L’Eixample neighborhood.

Senyor Vermut

Just up the street from the original Morro Fi, this makes a perfect second stop for patatas bravas or croquetas.

Quimet & Quimet

This popular Poble Sec spot has some of the most renowned tapas and bocadillos in town, along with house-made vermouth and a large wine list.

Bar Electricitat

You’d be remiss to skip one of the city’s oldest bars, which dates back to 1908. 

Cala del Vermut

Next to the Catedral de Barcelona, this narrow spot serves house vermouth from a barrel on the bar.

A version of this story first appeared in the December 2023/ January 20214issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline “On the Rocks.”

Source : Travel + Leisure